Experiencing the 1664 Battle Re-enactment at Castelo Rodrigo

Nestled atop a windswept hill near the Spanish border, Castelo Rodrigo is a village where the echoes of history still resonate among ancient walls and cobbled streets.

As one of Portugal’s twelve designated Historical Villages, it is a living monument to centuries of borderland conflict, resilience, and cultural exchange. Nowhere is this legacy more vividly brought to life than during the annual re-enactment of the 1664 Battle of Castelo Rodrigo—a spectacle that draws locals and visitors alike into the heart of Portugal’s fight for independence.

A Fortress Forged by Centuries of Conflict

Castelo Rodrigo’s origins stretch back to at least the 6th century, with legends of early fortifications and a strategic role throughout the Middle Ages. The village was named for Count Rodrigo Gonzalez de Girón, who, after Alfonso IX of León’s conquest, was entrusted with its defense and repopulation. Incorporated into the Portuguese crown in 1297 by the Treaty of Alcañices, the castle and its formidable walls—rebuilt and expanded by King Dinis—became a bulwark against Castilian ambitions, featuring 13 turrets, a keep, barbican, and moats.

The 1664 Battle: A Turning Point in the Restoration War

The annual re-enactment commemorates the Battle of Castelo Rodrigo, also known as the Battle of Salgadela, fought on July 7, 1664, during the Portuguese Restoration War. At the time, the village was besieged by a Spanish force of 7,000 men and nine cannons, commanded by the Duke of Osuna. Inside the fortress, only 150 Portuguese defenders held out, desperately trying to make their numbers seem greater by running along the ramparts and praying to their patron, Santa Maria de Aguiar.

General Pedro Jacques de Magalhães, the region’s military commander, mustered a relief force of 3,000 men. In a decisive counterattack near Mata de Lobos, the Portuguese routed the Spanish, capturing all their artillery and taking hundreds of prisoners. The Spanish commanders, including Osuna and John of Austria the Younger, reportedly escaped disguised as monks. This victory was pivotal, securing Portuguese independence and becoming a source of enduring local pride.

Legend and Miracle: The Lady of Aguiar

Local legend adds a mystical dimension to the battle. It is said that a woman, undeterred by the chaos, walked the battlefield collecting bullets and handing them to the Portuguese soldiers. Despite being fired upon, the bullets fell harmlessly at her feet. Eventually, she vanished into the clouds—believed to be an apparition of Our Lady of Aguiar, the village’s patroness, whose intervention was credited with saving Castelo Rodrigo.

The Re-enactment: Living History in the Village

Each year, the population of Castelo Rodrigo brings this dramatic episode to life. Villagers don period costumes, the castle walls become the stage for the siege, and the streets fill with the sounds of musket fire, drums, and shouts of battle. The re-enactment is not just a performance but a heartfelt tribute to the resilience and courage of their ancestors. It is one of the most anticipated events in the region, blending history, legend, and community spirit into an unforgettable experience.

Exploring Castelo Rodrigo Today

Beyond the annual battle re-enactment, Castelo Rodrigo is a treasure trove for slow travelers:

• Medieval Walls and Towers: Walk the ancient ramparts and imagine the tense days of siege and victory.

• Cristóvão de Moura Palace Ruins: Witness the scars of past conflicts and the grandeur of a noble residence destroyed in the 17th century.

• Nossa Senhora do Rocamador Church: A spiritual landmark with roots in the 11th century, rebuilt in the 17th.

• Manueline Pillory and Medieval Cistern: Architectural gems that tell of civic life and survival.

• Charming Streets and Panoramic Views: The village’s hilltop location offers sweeping vistas of the Douro valley and the Spanish borderlands.

Why Experience the Battle Re-enactment at Castelo Rodrigo?

• Step into a living pageant of Portugal’s fight for independence

• Witness the blending of history and legend in an authentic village setting

• Connect with a community that honors its past with pride and creativity

• Enjoy the unique atmosphere of one of Portugal’s most picturesque and storied villages

Castelo Rodrigo’s annual battle re-enactment is more than a historical spectacle—it’s a celebration of identity, resilience, and the enduring spirit of a borderland community. For the slow traveler, it offers a rare chance to immerse in living history, savor local traditions, and experience the magic of a village where every stone has a story to tell.

Join us in Castelo Rodrigo, where the past is never far away, and every summer the courage of 1664 comes alive once more.